26 – 28 February 2019; Como – addendum

It may be paranoia, or my heightened sense of observation and Holme’s like skills of deduction, but I fear my commentary on our departure from Milan for Como in our previous blog post may have been interpreted by some of our dear readers as a good story; some idle text to fill the initial void of a blog, looking for the creative hook to commence the core of the theme at hand.

Milanese malcontented marchers

Let me assure you, dear reader, these marchers were real and they were LOUD. Like all motorbikes in Italy (which have their exhaust baffles removed for aesthetics) these marchers wanted those within a 500 metre radius to know they were unhappy. No, they wanted you to share their pain – audibly!

The young Sherlock’s amongst our dear readers will have observed the lead banner bearing the ABB logo. This would be the ASEA Brown Boveri company, a Swiss-Swedish multinational corporation headquartered in Zurich operating mainly in robotics, power, heavy electrical equipment and automation technology areas. I can confirm these marching protesters were not robots (due to their principal lack of trailing cables). I would expect these workers were marching and protesting about not having been replaced by robots by this corporate giant. Imagine how much quicker the monumental cathedrals and related structures found in Italy and other places could have been assembled using robots.


CERN and the LHC (Large Hadron Collider)

The LHC at CERN outside Geneva is a particular place I wanted to visit on this trip. CERN has a rigid visitor policy wherein they provide free tours in English and French every day for a limited number of visitors (24). To get on a tour you have to apply via their web site. The rules of engagement for this process are well defined and based on a first come, first serve basis within a very limited time window.

We had tried on multiple days to submit an application only to find the window had closed on the numbers for that day. I’ve stayed up till after midnight, been on-line before 6 am and attempted other combinations trying to secure a tour – all to no avail.

However; I am now pleased to advise that following patient programming of an automation script we have been confirmed on TWO tours at CERN. I may be able to sell one of these tours on eBay given they are as scarce as hen’s teeth.


Christine dearest and that itinerary …

I also wanted to make a comment about the lack of blog updates on this trip compared to our trip to the UK and Ireland in 2016. Dearest Christine, who has arranged our itinerary, has packed our schedule so full of adventures and delicious deviations that it is all I can manage at the end of the day is to copy the day’s photographs onto the backup hard drive before falling into a stupor on the floor at the foot of the bed.

c’est la vie.

21 – 25 February 2019; Milan

Our train trip to Sydney was uneventful and we were able to check-in and weave our way through the duty free area without much hassle before locating the Emirates lounge where Chris was able to enjoy some tasty snacks and aperitifs.

Chris snacking in Emirates first class lounge Sydney

The sector to Dubai was a little more than fourteen and a half hours arriving just after midnight local time. We were able to freshen up and relax in the business class lounge before departing again for Milan around 3:45 am local time. And seven hours later we touched down at Malpensa International airport, delivered safely into the cold winter air of Milan.

The train trip from the airport into Milan brought us to Central Station where it took quite some time to find the mystical vendor buried in the depths of the cavernous station who was able to sell us some metro tickets (a carnet [multi-use] ticket). For this privilege we had to queue for thirty minutes along with people wanting to purchase cigarettes, newspapers and bottles of water. Welcome to Italy!

Our accommodation is located about five minutes from the Missori Metro station. After sussing out the Metro system we emerged, dragging our bags onto the street, intent on finding our home for the next five nights.

Our apartment is on the third floor overlooking a main road. During our stay here, on a number of occasions, I’ve recalled the line from Banjo Patterson’s “Clancy of the Overflow” ‘…. I can hear the fiendish rattle of the tramways and the buses making hurry down the street…’. Milan’s transit system is extensive, varied, pretty regular but in serious need of some lubricating oil.

Milan Cathedral – entrance facade

After unpacking our bags, we went in search of Milan Cathedral (Duomo di Milano). The construction of the current building commenced in 1386 and took more than 600 years to complete and is the largest church in Italy (the larger St. Peter’s Basilica is in the State of the Vatican City).

Milan Cathedral – one column for each week in the year

The plan consists of central nave and four side-aisles crossed by a transept followed by choir and apse. There are fifty two columns supporting the vaulted ceiling with those of the central nave having a height of around 45 metres. On the outside, the terraces and roof are equally impressive. A “Gold Madonna” sits atop the Madonnina’s spire at a height of more than 108 metres. You can see the “Gold Madonna” peeking through the top of the two spires to the right of the main entrance door below.

Milan Cathedral – entrance facade

We visited the Milan Art Gallery spending many hours reacquainting ourselves with medieval and renaissance religious art before proceeding to book a viewing session of Leonardo da Vinci’s “The Last Supper” which is housed by the refectory of the Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie, a UNESCO World Heritage listed site.

The Last Supper – Leonardo da Vinci, Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie

Access to this artefact is tightly controlled with no more than twenty five people allowed in for fifteen minute intervals. At the appointed time, you present yourself with ticket to be scanned. No bags are allowed and you pass through a metal detector with additional hand metal detectors into a waiting corridor. After fifteen minutes, the doors in front open and you are allowed into the viewing hall. “The Last Supper” mural is at one end and a larger fresco of the crucifixion at the other end. The lighting is subdued and flash photography is not allowed. Both artworks have suffered from the passage of time and multiple, delinquent incidents. Leonardo used a dry technique, painting directly on the wall compared to the more traditional wet fresco. This decision has left the “The Last Supper” prone to deterioration and it has undergone numerous restorations, most recently in 1999.

Votive candles at the Chapel of St. Joseph, Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie

After our fifteen minutes with Leonardo’s masterpiece, we visited the adjacent church of Santa Maria delle Grazie which suffered significant damage during World War II. We placed a couple of votive candles at the Chapel of St. Joseph for our departed loved ones.

We visited the Museum of Natural History and spent many hours looking at bugs, birds, bones and boundless beasts. Spanning three levels, it is the largest natural history museum in Italy.

Museum of Natural History – spot the dinosaur

The weather during our stay in Milan has been clear blue skies every day with temperatures ranging between 10 and 19 deg C. We’ve been rugged up with scarves, warm jackets and gloves. What a splendid change from the weather we’ve had at home recently!

It’s a happy coincidence that it has been Milan Fashion Week while we’ve been here and we’ve observed with some interest the large marquee tents located around the city spewing thumping electronic music as crowds of vicarious onlookers strain to catch a glimpse of the A-listers and the ever attendant beautiful people. I spied a lightweight cardigan in the window of one of THOSE shops with a price tag of EUR 1,390 (AUD 2,200) – not likely to be the sort of clothing purchase I’d ever consider.

Tomorrow we depart by train for Como. Arrivederci Milano!