Our train trip to Sydney was uneventful and we were able to check-in and weave our way through the duty free area without much hassle before locating the Emirates lounge where Chris was able to enjoy some tasty snacks and aperitifs.
The sector to Dubai was a little more than fourteen and a half hours arriving just after midnight local time. We were able to freshen up and relax in the business class lounge before departing again for Milan around 3:45 am local time. And seven hours later we touched down at Malpensa International airport, delivered safely into the cold winter air of Milan.
The train trip from the airport into Milan brought us to Central Station where it took quite some time to find the mystical vendor buried in the depths of the cavernous station who was able to sell us some metro tickets (a carnet [multi-use] ticket). For this privilege we had to queue for thirty minutes along with people wanting to purchase cigarettes, newspapers and bottles of water. Welcome to Italy!
Our accommodation is located about five minutes from the Missori Metro station. After sussing out the Metro system we emerged, dragging our bags onto the street, intent on finding our home for the next five nights.
Our apartment is on the third floor overlooking a main road. During our stay here, on a number of occasions, I’ve recalled the line from Banjo Patterson’s “Clancy of the Overflow” ‘…. I can hear the fiendish rattle of the tramways and the buses making hurry down the street…’. Milan’s transit system is extensive, varied, pretty regular but in serious need of some lubricating oil.
After unpacking our bags, we went in search of Milan Cathedral (Duomo di Milano). The construction of the current building commenced in 1386 and took more than 600 years to complete and is the largest church in Italy (the larger St. Peter’s Basilica is in the State of the Vatican City).
The plan consists of central nave and four side-aisles crossed by a transept followed by choir and apse. There are fifty two columns supporting the vaulted ceiling with those of the central nave having a height of around 45 metres. On the outside, the terraces and roof are equally impressive. A “Gold Madonna” sits atop the Madonnina’s spire at a height of more than 108 metres. You can see the “Gold Madonna” peeking through the top of the two spires to the right of the main entrance door below.
We visited the Milan Art Gallery spending many hours reacquainting ourselves with medieval and renaissance religious art before proceeding to book a viewing session of Leonardo da Vinci’s “The Last Supper” which is housed by the refectory of the Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie, a UNESCO World Heritage listed site.
Access to this artefact is tightly controlled with no more than twenty five people allowed in for fifteen minute intervals. At the appointed time, you present yourself with ticket to be scanned. No bags are allowed and you pass through a metal detector with additional hand metal detectors into a waiting corridor. After fifteen minutes, the doors in front open and you are allowed into the viewing hall. “The Last Supper” mural is at one end and a larger fresco of the crucifixion at the other end. The lighting is subdued and flash photography is not allowed. Both artworks have suffered from the passage of time and multiple, delinquent incidents. Leonardo used a dry technique, painting directly on the wall compared to the more traditional wet fresco. This decision has left the “The Last Supper” prone to deterioration and it has undergone numerous restorations, most recently in 1999.
After our fifteen minutes with Leonardo’s masterpiece, we visited the adjacent church of Santa Maria delle Grazie which suffered significant damage during World War II. We placed a couple of votive candles at the Chapel of St. Joseph for our departed loved ones.
We visited the Museum of Natural History and spent many hours looking at bugs, birds, bones and boundless beasts. Spanning three levels, it is the largest natural history museum in Italy.
The weather during our stay in Milan has been clear blue skies every day with temperatures ranging between 10 and 19 deg C. We’ve been rugged up with scarves, warm jackets and gloves. What a splendid change from the weather we’ve had at home recently!
It’s a happy coincidence that it has been Milan Fashion Week while we’ve been here and we’ve observed with some interest the large marquee tents located around the city spewing thumping electronic music as crowds of vicarious onlookers strain to catch a glimpse of the A-listers and the ever attendant beautiful people. I spied a lightweight cardigan in the window of one of THOSE shops with a price tag of EUR 1,390 (AUD 2,200) – not likely to be the sort of clothing purchase I’d ever consider.
Tomorrow we depart by train for Como. Arrivederci Milano!
